We are now on terra firma having packed Epicurios up for the winter. I will return to this time later but first let me take you on our journey over the last two and half weeks.
Our time in Ischia was a combination of relaxing, cleaning, provisioning and sight seeing. A highlight was a ferry trip over to Naples for the day. We did this on a Sunday but the place was still very busy compared to what we had experienced. Wandering around the old town was a combination of being overwhelmed by a big bustling city with lots of people, viewing ancient buildings that seemed in need of care and finding many buildings wrapped up in scaffolding being repaired. We followed a self-guided walking tour passing the Castel Nuovo, Teatro San Carlo then into the huge piazza where the palace and civic buildings are just amazing. We then went in search of churches but had to stop for lunch. This was ok but we then found churches were closed in the late afternoon, so we missed out. Even god retires for afternoon siesta. We returned to Ischia on the ferry to recover from our big day out and prepared for our departure the next day.
Naples
Naples
We left the marina late morning heading for the Amalfi coast. On the way we passed Capri
Capri
with its impressive cliffs and then down the Amalfi coast past Positano to Amalfi.
Positano
We had planned to anchor or pick up a mooring at Amalfi but it did not offer anything so we continued on. As there was no wind it was motor sailing and we finally stopped, mid afternoon, in a little bay near Capo Dorso just east of Amalfi and anchored. This proved to be a great find as the conditions were perfect for us. Everyone else left the bay leaving us to enjoy the serenity of the coastline and view of Amalfi on our own. We had been blessed by the weather.
Anchorage south of Amalfi
Next day we motored sailed further south and anchored at Palinuro, on the west coast of Italy.
This was again was another gem. A smooth and quiet anchorage where we swam and relaxed, ate on board and enjoyed Stuart’s fine cooking.
Anchorage at Palinuro
We continued on the next day to the Aeolian Islands, off the northern coast of Sicily. Again it was very quiet winds so we motored with the main and genoa up for 12 hours, arriving at Panarea early evening passing Stromoboli on the way. We went into town for dinner that night at a lovely authentic Italian, Da Francesco with swordfish and mixed seafood being a highlight.
Stromboli
Panarea
Vulcano
The next day we headed over, motoring again to anchor at Vulcano, going past Lipari to check it out. We had visited these islands in 2009, so it was great to be back and see them again. We ate on board and had an OK night on anchor, although there was a bit of swell early in the morning. In the bay were the most boats we have seen in one anchorage since Elba. This allowed us to indulge in our favourite pastime of watching other boats come in and anchor.
Next day we set of early, 9.45am (early for us) as our plan was to head into the Messina straits. Again little wind so it was motoring with main up. Along the way the nav system / instruments started to play up by shutting down but as they kept on re-booting, we continued on. Into the Messina straits and the conditions changed and it became quite surreal. It was dark from lots of smoke haze from fires on the coast, the sea was going all sorts of directions due to currents, ferries were crossing and the nav centre and instruments continued to play up.
With all this going on we decided to continue down to Taormina and arrived there after dark around 8.30 – 9.00pm with no instruments! Fortunately we were able to pick up a mooring, ably assisted by George. Secure, exhausted and relieved we had a drink, a snack and then bed. Next day the instruments were not working, so after discussions with George who managed the moorings he gave us a name of a person in Riposto down the coast. Also he told us that the weather was going to turn and a storm was coming so we should head to Riposto marina.
After 2 nights in Taormina, which proved to be very rolly polly at night, we headed off to Riposto for repairs and to hold up while the storm came through. At Riposto we had our repairs on the nav centre done. It proved to be a relay, which was sorted very ably by Sorbello Salvotore and his partner over a couple of days.
The offending relay!
Being stuck here was not an issue as the weather turned and it rained and rained.
Rain at Riposto
Provisions arrive at Riposto
This was both good and bad. Good for a number of reasons, it washed the boat of fire debris and Mt.Etna dust, we met some lovely people from the UK and Sweden who we wined and dined with, but bad because we were delayed in getting to Ragusa. But that’s cruising.
After 4 nights in Riposto, with our instruments working, we were ready to continue south. We bid farewell to our new sailing friends and headed off to Siracusa. It was a great sail down, Stuart was very happy with main and genoa up and wind behind us, ranging from 10-18 knots. We arrived in Siracusa around 6.30 and anchored in a lovely quiet bay with a wonderful view of the old city.
The next day we went into town to wander around the old town and also re-visited some places we had been on our last trip in 2009. This included the food market, which has wonderful fresh produce, but I resisted, however we did buy some stuffed veal and chicken from the butchers to cook on board. Also we went past a restaurant we ate at as a large group with Stuart’s sister and friends in 2009. Siracusa is a lovely lovely city.
Siracusa
We had a superb lunch at Porto Marina and then popped back to the boat. On the way back I spied a Flying Kangaroo flag so popped over to say hello. We were then invited on for a drink and met Sydney the dog, Lance and Alia.
Lunch at Porto Marina, Siracusa
After 2 nights anchored off Siracusa, we continued on south. We were now into countdown time, 1 more night before arriving at Ragusa. Our sail was motoring with the Code 0 up. The anchorage was at Idelle Correnti where we had our last swim.
Our last anchorage before heading to Ragusa
Next day motor sailed onto Marina di Ragusa, arriving at 3.00pm. This is where Epicurios is wintering. Arriving here was an achievement. We have completed 1872 nautical miles since leaving France in June.
Packing up the boat took 5 days. It was hot work so it took longer than we anticipated. We finished on Friday.
Epicurios all packed up for winter
We are now on a road trip, having stayed in Ragusa to visit the sites of Inspector Montalbano, Agrigento and the Valley of the Temples, staying in a small village called Campofelice di Roccella near Cefalu. Then back to Marina di Ragusa for one last look to check of Epicurios, flying to Rome this Saturday and then home on Oct 1st.
To date we have been having some excellent lunches and dinners at local eateries. Standouts have been Locanda del Colonnello at Modicia and Il Consiglio Di Sicilia at Donnalucata, Porto Marina Siracusa, Nangalarruni Castelbuono.
We are already planning our return in April 2016, so until then this blog will take a break.
Travels with Epicurios 