North of Kos (15 May – 29 May)

We are nestled in a bay on the south coast of Lipsi called Kouloura. We have chosen this spot as a suitable place to anchor to sit out a meltemi. The bay is relatively shallow and has good holding in sand. The surrounding hills are not high which is important as the higher the hills the greater intensity of the gusts. This is the downwind effect, which not only hits the boat with a shudder but is also accompanied by a roaring sound. The bay opens to the south but is well protected from the waves created by the northerly winds.

So we thought! It is a marvel of physics that waves appear to bend at right angles and penetrate even the most protected bay. Remember the wave tank in physics; reflection, refraction, modulation and frequency. All irrelevant stuff until you apply it to sailing, and even more importantly, when at berth.

Take Emborios for example. Emborios is a small village at the northern end of a bay on the west coast of Kalymnos. It is almost land-locked, apart from an opening to the west. Well the waves roll in through that small opening, refract inwards and spend the rest of their energy reflecting and modulating around the bay and peaking at Emborios, where we were moored. With its deep shores and steep rock cliffs, the Mediterranean, particularly the Greek islands, is prime for reflecting and dispersing waves into so called protected bays to disrupt yachties’ sleep.

So here we are in Kouloura, wind howling, and being rocked to sleep!

Where have we been since our last blog? We stayed three nights anchored at Ormos Marmaro, Fournoi Islands. The bay was away from the town and we were accompanied by different groups of yachties. One day we ventured across the bay and around the point on TT and hiked up over the hill to the town and harbour, Campos. We met a local, Dimino, who sold his own produce and gave us some of his liqueur. We then moved on to Taverna Mitos to savior the island’s culinary speciality, fresh lobster pasta. Hmmm that was good.

 

 

We were anchored off a sandy beach and spent time observing seagulls gathering. To one end of the bay there is a fresh water spring that trickles into a small rock pool. Towards the end of the day the seagulls would glide in and proceed to drink the fresh water. There was no squabbling and very little posturing while they waited in turn to have a drink. They would then line up along the shore and drench their bodies into the seawater, washing and preening. This ritual appeared to emulate the ancient practice of public bathing, attracting hundreds of birds each evening.

 

 

On the 17 May we sailed south to Patmos to anchor at a favourite spot inside Yeoryios Island, north west of Skala, the main town of Patmos. We docked at the town the following day to refresh supplies and visit the Chora above Skala. The last time we visited this lovely village it was hot, so this time we were able to amble without being exhausted by oppressive heat. We ate at Taverna Tziaeri by the water and discovered the delights of Cretan wine. We left the next day, keen to get back to Arki.

 

 

It took us three attempts and 85m of chain to finely secure our selves into our spot at Arki. We knew the wind was going to pick up so we made sure we were secure. One thing when you anchor Mediterranean style, that is, backing into the shore and tying the stern to rocks, is that you do not swing with the wind. So we found ourselves across the wind as it funneled down the channel where we anchor. Slap, slap, slap into the night, so we decided to move on, sailing southwards to Lipsi to try out a new anchorage, Kouloura.

From there we sailed to Kalymnos, visiting the village of Emborios. Apart from the rock and rolling that night, we enjoyed exploring Emborios and eating at To Kyma on the delicious fried zucchini, calamari and swordfish. Surrounding the bay, to the south, are many resorts making the bay a tourist hub of Kalymnos.

 

 

We moved onto the port of Kalymnos and berthed at the wharf for three nights. We surprised ourselves and thoroughly enjoyed our visit. Again, the previous time we had visited, it was hot, and it just seemed too much hustle and bustle. This time we took in the surrounds, visiting shops, eating out and nattering to the marina man, Yanni and the frenchies next door.

 

 

Kalymnos has an impressive Archeological museum predating and including the Byzantine era. There seems to be a policy to house newly discovered antiquities at the museum, rather than in Athens, and they display some very impressive marble and bronze statues. All for 4 euro!

 

 

Leaving the harbour we motored along the east coast of Kalymnos. We moored at Vathi for lunch but considered the wharf was too risky to stay overnight. Apart from the perils of refracting waves, the other danger is surge from ships and high speed ferries. Vathi, at the end of a thin gorge, experiences surges and according to Captain Manoli, there is a serious surge from the big ferry that passes early in the morning.

 

 

So we continued north along the coast and happened upon a bay called Palionnisou, another new berth for Epicurios. We picked up a mooring that belong to the restaurant on the right side and settled in for the night, having had a long lunch at Vathi. The bay is a delight. Surrounded by cliffs that are now attracting rock climbers, it is a favourite for yachties.

The following evening we were picked up and ferried to Taverna Ilias by the owner and bbq cook. It is easy to be cynical about these enterprising folk who lay moorings with a hope you will eat at their taverna. They are, without exception, family ventures that delight in welcoming you and cooking delightful food. Taverna Ilias was no exception. In fact Jane has declared the oven cooked lemon lamb, swordfish and stuffed tomatoes and peppers, our best meal so far this trip! Apart from the lobster.

 

 

Looking at the weather, and needing to head north to meet Anna and Paul in Leros, we decided yesterday to sail back to Kouloura, a distance of 20 plus miles. Beating into the wind we spied likely competitors, all of whom, did not stand a chance. By the time we reached Lipsi the wind was 20 plus knots and we had reefed the main. Let it be said, all competitors we left behind as Epicurios out pointed and sailed faster.

So now we are in Kouloura sitting out the meltemi. Last night we enjoyed chicken curry and tonight we will have our first go at pizzas. At least in this remote bay we receive great 4G internet coverage, something we cannot be guaranteed at home in Australia. Onto Lakki Thursday to meet up with Anna and Paul on the weekend.

As you probably have gathered during the last couple of weeks we have pottered from anchorage to anchorage, discovering new berths and rediscovering one’s previously visited. Epicurus would be proud.