Amorgos, Astypalia and more (30 May – 1 July)

Well the pace stepped up somewhat with the arrival of Lynda, Steve and Adam but we will get to that in due course.

On the 30^th May, we found ourselves back at Lakki marina hanging out to catch up with Anna and Paul. They rolled up in their hire car and were promptly welcomed with a glass of prosecco. We then proceeded to discuss their Leros itinerary, as we were keen to introduce them to our favourite eateries over the next few days. They were suitably relaxed, having been at the end of their trip, and were happy to take what ever we suggested, so we started at Mylos at Agia Marina, then Pirofani at Pandeli and finished at Dimitri’s above Pandeli. In between we moved Epicurios around to Pandeli on the east side of Leros and even managed to visit the castle with Anna and Paul.

 

 

This Byzantinian castle was built in the 11^thCentury and donated to Osios Christodoulos who also founded the Monastery of Patmos. The Knights of St John occupied it in the 14^th and 15^th Centuries, supposedly to protect the Christians from the Ottomans but conveniently were on hand to collect taxes for the Pope. Our visit coincided with a tour of Romanians who appeared to be on a religious pilgrimage. They were far more emotionally involved at the 3 chapels contained within the walls and several wept as they knelt before the icon of the Virgin Mary at the Church of the Panagia located just outside the western walls.

 

 

We waved farewell to Anna and Paul and set off northward, revisiting a favourite haunt at Yeoryios, Patmos for two nights before heading further north to a new favourite, Ormos Marmaro, Fournoi, the seagull bay. It was at Yeoryios that compatriots, the Lowy’s, arrived in their 73 m motor yacht Ilona. Jane spied Frank on deck and we were pleased they popped in to visit us. Jane was making lasagna and we decided to add a cup of water just in case they came over for dinner. Surprisingly they stayed on board Ilona and were off overnight to Santorini, probably on the way to the World Cup, so we continued enjoying our peace and quiet. At Marmaro we discovered that not only did the seagulls enjoy the remoteness but also the nudist whose presence shooed the gulls away. We also encountered the worlds smallest greek fishing boat.

 

 

After two days we started our southward journey and motored in calm waters across to Ormos Poros, Agathonisi, another new bay for Epicurios. We sat for 2 nights and watched storm clouds brewing. The bay is remote and well protected from the meltimi. We were alone on the second night and we will visit this spot again.

 

 

On Monday 11 June we motor sailed south in the rain for the first couple of hours and then experienced the vagaries of Aegean seas winds; that is, 2 to 20 kts and 180 degree wind shifts. Finally we arrived at Palionisou on the east coast of Kalymnos to enjoy another meal at Ilias of slow cooked goat and rice, grilled octopus and stuffed tomato and peppers. Unfortunately it was a rolly night, why, who only knows!

The next day we sailed to Kos marina, completing 4 gybes on the way. Kos is where we picked up Lynda, Adam and Steve and engaged Dejan, the Serbian refrigerator technician, recommended by Bill and Janet whom we met in Pythagoria at the beginning of this season.

Bill had informed us that his freezer had not worked because Jeanneau had incorrectly connected the gas lines. It was Dejan who had discovered this and subsequently fixed the issue. Well, we had never used our freezer as a freezer, believing the draw on the battery was excessive, rather using it as a drinks cooler. Even so, Stuart was not convinced it was working properly and upon seeing Bill and Janet’s, immediately had freezer envy. On closer inspection, low and behold, we had the same issue on Epicurios: the gas lines had been incorrectly connected. Hence, we contacted Dejan on arrival at Kos who said he would be there shortly. Hours later Dejan arrived, claiming the universal excuse of “Greek time” (note, Serbian and Greek time!) and inspected the freezer compressor and agreed it was incorrectly assembled. The following day, and the allowance of Greek time, Dejan reconnected and re-gassed the freezer and suddenly we had a freezer, that froze, and did not drain the batteries. Jane squealed in delight as we could now buy up big and freeze the meats, bread and frozen veges. We even bought a bag of ice to cool cocktail drinks!

On Thursday 14 June Lynda, Adam and Steve arrived and we dined at Ali’s, again a favourite from previous years. A quick fitting of new cockpit speakers that Lynda brought with her, and the following day, after some final provisioning, we set off, initially to Kalymnos but continuing onto Pandeli, Leros, to avoid brewing storm clouds. That night Adam swung into action, something he was to repeat often, and cooked up a chicken massaman curry. The following day our guests hiked up to the castle above while we dagged about on the boat. That night we ate at Pirofani’s on the beach, engaging with the delightful family who run the taverna. Too often, when we speak to the local parents, they are worried about their children’s future, their education and employment opportunities on the islands.

 

 

Keen to give our guests some good sailing we set off westward. We beat the 29 nm from Leros to Levitha, a remote island between the Dodecanese and Cyclades islands, where an enterprising chap has established moorings and a taverna. Instead, Adam cooked a Malaysian vegie curry, while we discovered that the freezer was freezing the gin! On closer inspection Stuart discovered that the thermostat was not working but was able to set the compressor to a lower speed to raise the temperature beyond gin freezing. Dejan was able to rectify the issue when we dropped Adam and Steve off in Kos two weeks later.

The weather was calm so we set out to Amorgos, known for its wind, a further 33 nm west. It was on the south side of Amorgos, two years prior, we had experienced 30 plus kts, so we approached the north side with trepidation. That night we nestled between Amorgos and Nisos Nikoyria having beat to windward from Levitha. Jane made Hungarian goulash and we enjoyed a calm night, something that was reassuring, given our previous experience.

 

 

The sail along the north coast of Amorgos was uneventful and we arrived in the main port of Katapola to tie up on the wharf. That afternoon we instituted the long lunch at Minos while watching on nervously as a big Blue Star ferry arrived, its surge dangerously rocking boats tied to the wharf. On Epicurios we have learnt painfully, you have to have plenty of chain out, 60 plus metres.

 

The following morning Steve and Lynda took the bus across the island to visit the monastery perched on the cliffs to the south side of Amorgos. On their return we decided to set off to a remote anchorage between the two islets Antikeras and Drima, south of Naxos. Up the hill, overlooking our anchorage, there was another example of Greek tragedy. Too often we see someone’s dream investment of a house or accommodation units left incomplete and crumbling. In this instance, the double storied accommodation was a shell in a position, while overlooking a spectacular view, was totally impractical. Someone’s dream, someone’s failure.

 

 

With the wind unusually calm wind we set off for Astypalia on 21 June. We motored along the south coast of Amorgos and enjoyed the calm conditions. We motored beneath the monastery, something we saw through the mist of wind spray when we passed previously. We then motor sailed with the Code Zero all the way to Vathy, on the north coast of Astypalia.

 

 

Last year we sheltered here from the meltimi but with the weather calm, we stayed just one night. Dinner at Maria’s, still suffering a sore back, with fresh fish, meatballs, fried zucchini and eggplant. Mum was stationed at her usual spot and self-service was the call for the night, as Maria would whistle when the meals were ready.

 

 

The next day we motored to the start line and gave the Norwegians good 2 nm start. It took us until we rounded the south coast of Astypalia to make headway and a strategic early gybe to overtake them. Another victory to Epicurios, if only they knew.

 

 

We anchored on the south side of Astypalia town in a bay called Livadhia. Last year we rocked and rolled and this year was no different. (Memo to self, Livardhia rock and rolls) We ate on the beach at Astroplelos, a discovery from last year, and trekked up to the town and castle later that day. Bleary eyed from rock and rolling (and too much alcohol?) we decided to move eastward to the next bay, Analipsis, where Adam cooked lasagna using a local cheese which is somewhat between Greek and cream cheese in texture and taste.

 

The wind filled in from the northwest and we were set for an Epicurian power sail across to Nisyros. The 40 nm took 6 hrs and gave our guests a sample of the controlled speed sailing Epicurios is capable of. We arrived at the port of Paloi and tied up to the wharf. Next to us was the Belgium man who, and we do see this from time to time, seemed to own the wharf. Whether it was us, or the boat across the port, or the boat leaving at 6 am, he was there to help and add his authority. Interestingly, he was alone on his boat but entertained other Belgians, so he was not a total isolate. The Swedes, a few boats down, had a slapping halyard, the bane of all ports.

 

 

Lynda, Adam and Steve hired a car and left bright and early for the volcano the next day. They counted 10 buses arriving as they left the volcano, reinforcing the notion, be early or suffer the crowds. Steve came back and picked us up as we had another long lunch planned for To Balconi overlooking the crater. An enjoyable meal and we wandered our way back via the main town Mandraki. That night the wind change to a southerly and the night air filled with sulfurous fumes from the volcano. Time to leave.

 

 

On the 26 June we continued south, ambitious in our intent, to sail to Chalki, some 36 nm away. On leaving Nisyros we sighted a rare monk seal off the coast. Motoring to the start there were at least two other unsuspecting competitors. Sails hoisted, we were catching up, pointing higher and faster in southerly breeze. Suddenly, a 60 degree shift, then another 60 degree shift and we lost all momentum. Finally the wind kicked in and we found ourselves too far out to sea. The other boats were closer to the shores of Tilos and took advantage of the downwind effect and took off. With our tails between our legs we decide to cut short our passage due to the forecast of 80% thunderstorms and anchor in Ormos Livardia, Tilos.

We stayed two nights at Tilos allowing Stuart, Lynda and Steve to walk the 8.5 km walk around the point and up to the deserted village. This trip was completed last year by Stuart, Jane and Deb under far more trying conditions. This season has been cooler than previous years by as much as 10 degrees so the walk, as opposed to the epic struggle of last year, was a pleasant stroll. Fittingly we witnessed a dressing down by the port marinara of the Swedes from Nisyros over their slapping halyard. justice at last.

 

 

The penultimate night for Adam and Steve meant that the Captain’s Table was prepared with sausages, potato salad and Greek salad. A somewhat sober Captain’s Table was had as we had to rise early for the sail across to Kos.

 

 

The wind was abeam and up to 20 kts so we took in the 2^nd reef, a first for Epicurios. The 33 nm trip took 5 hours, and we arrived at Kos marina in time to engage Dejan, on Greek time, clean the boat and do the laundry. Unfortunately it rained and the clouds dropped dirty rain onto the clean deck and bimini. Damn, but we will survive. Back to Ali’s for dinner and an early morning farewell to Adam and Steve, who have been a delight to have on board.

 

 

The three of us took off to Leros that day and anchored in Pandeli. That night we ate at Dimitri’s for his signatory salad and tuna pasterma and wonderful grilled calamari and pasta pockets stuffed with shrimps and scallops.

 

 

We are now anchored at Arki in a bay just south of a favourite haunt. We are expecting the wind to pick up and have tied to rocks in anticipation. The water is clear, the freezer working like it should and there is plenty of action from day trippers and other yachties to observe. Bliss!